The Tribal Sari

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Post on the tribal sari. 

Doing this post was an exercise in paring. The tribes in India (I am going with the nomenclature of tribes here though that itself makes one curious) are extremely varied, their dress changes with region as does their socio-economic status. I didn’t want it to be a post that trades on “forest dweller fashion” but merely a document of clothes and adornment that is quite distinctive.  In the end I went with the Central Indian tribes like the Gonds, Muria and Santhals because the post focussed on the short sari and the evolution of the wearing of a blouse-and that is best seen here.

I think himalayanbuddhistart had mentioned the accessories that you can spot in posts and in this particular case there is a whole lot going on here.  Chunky silver jewellery worn by tribals is very popular and is often marketed as “tribal” or “ethnic” chic (Emma Tarlo’s book Clothing Matters discusses the rise of ethnic chic in the 1980s in India which adopted (some may say appropriated) a whole lot of tribal elements).

This post set off a lot of thoughts but the purpose of tumblr/wordpress is to focus on clothing and so I will stop here. You can stop by and appreciate  (expensive) modern tribal saris for the urban market here (Note: I am not affiliated with or endorsing the site, it’s linked merely to indicate the kind of sari).

Posted in Culture, Tribal, Vintage Blouse, Vintage Dress, Women | Tagged , , , , , , , , , | 2 Comments

The Marilyn Silverstone post

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Marilyn Silverstone‘s 1959 photograph of Waheeda Rehman.

More on her here.

Posted in 1950s, Actor, Old Bollywood, Photography, Sari, Sari Blouse, Women | Tagged , , , , , , , , | Leave a comment

The Music Post

Women and Stringed Instruments:

a) Temple Sculpture (anklets!) b) Kalighat Painting (the women always have anklets and pointy shoes) c) Mid 19th century portrait (the attire appears late Mughal) d) Raja Ravi Varma’s woman playing sitar (love the casually discarded footwear detail, the sari is the Maharashtrian 9-yard teamed with a fitted bodice)   e) Amrita Shergil in a sleeveless blouse (1930s) f) Lata Mangeshkar in the 1950s in trademark white sari.

UPDATE: The instruments: 1, 2 and 4-sitar, 3-lute, 5-veena, 6-tanpura.

PS: Post on retro-bridal here.

Posted in 1930s, 1950s, 19th century, Ancient India, fashion, Indian Dress, Sari, Sari Blouse, Vintage, Vintage Dress | Tagged , , , , , , , , , , | 4 Comments

Classical Drape

Post Alexander’s North Indian excursion, there were a number of Hellenic influences in that part of India.  It is hard to say how much the Greeks influenced the precursor of the sari (Greek garments at the time included the peplos and chiton) but thedepiction of draperies with fluted lines in sculpture was influenced by the Greeks.

In the 19th century, Victorian Hellenism influenced painters who often placed their subjects in Greek (and Roman) settings. In a number of these paintings, women wear fluid draperies in keeping with clothing of the classical age.  In turn European art movements of the time influenced Indian painters and classical Indian heroines in saris were a natural subject.

In the set today a) Raja Ravi Varma’s Padmini (Lotus Lady) b) Albert Joseph Moore’s Shells c) Frederick Leighton’s Invocation and d) Raja Ravi Varma’s Vasanthika (Spring)

A little bit on Raja Ravi Varma and his influences here.

Posted in 19th century, Colonial, Paintings, Sari, Victorian, Vintage, Vintage Dress | Tagged , , , , , , , , , , , | Leave a comment

The Tamil Cinema Poster Post

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I love that so many old Tamil film posters have just the actresses on them and you get to see different kinds of attire.

The first film is Madanamala, where the heroine is a dancer. The second,Devamanohari, features a princess. The other two women are a little more down to earth with the third picture being a poster for Velaikaari (translation: Servant Girl) and the fourth for Rohini, a Tamil adaptation of Bankim’s Bengali novel Krishnakanter Will (you can see that the actress is trying to create the Bengali look).

The movies are from the 1940s/1950s.

Posted in 1940s, 1950s, 20th century, Cinema, Courtesan, Dancer, Indian Cinema, Sari, Sari Blouse, Tamil Cinema, Women | Tagged , , , , , | 5 Comments

The Princess Post

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Vijayaraje Scindia in the 1940s in a gold bordered sari.  A style so popular in the 30s/early 40s.

Also Durru-Shehvar though admittedly my attention was diverted by the splendid Diana Vreeland.

Posted in 1940s, 20th century, fashion, Royalty, Sari, Sari Blouse, Vintage, Women | Tagged , , , , , , , | Leave a comment

On Indian Men

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A break from the usual – some random posts on the attire adopted by Indian men.

Posted in 19th century, 20th century, British Raj, Colonial, Indian History, Indian men, Islamic Dress | Tagged , , , , , , , | Leave a comment

The Tehran University Post

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I did a couple of posts on tumblr on minorities in India, including the Jews and Armenians.

Gauhar Jaan

An Armenian Lady

Jewish Dress

And while doing the Armenian post, I came across this  at the Iranica site, a photograph of the first female students of Tehran University circa 1935.  The site  lists the group as “Plate III. The first women students at the University of Tehran (September 1936). Front row (left to right): Batūl Samīʿī, Zahrā Eskandarī, Mehrangīz Manūčehrīān, Serāj-al-Nesā, Badr-al-Molūk Bāmdād, Šams-al-Molūk Moṣāḥeb, Ḵānom Šāhzāda Second row (left to right): Zahrā Kīā Ḵānlarī, Forūḡ Kīā, Tāj-al-Molūk Naḵaī, Šāyesta Ṣādeq, Ṭūsī Ḥayerī. After Bāmdād, I, p. 99.”  Most of the women went on to bigger and better things.

The woman in the sari – per this Chehabi paper, Seraj-al-Nesa Begum was one of the first three women to enroll at the Teacher Training College in 1935. It appears the British Consulate interjected with the authorities on her behalf and eventually the authorities allowed foreign women to retain a head covering as long as they wore their national costume (Iran was at this point in the throes of Westernisation and a banning of the veil was part of this).

The shirt-blouse is a tad too modest for the mid 1930s but the explanation behind the photograph and the fact that this is a student’s dress explains it.

Posted in 1930s, Dress Reform, Education, Vintage Blouse, Women | Tagged , , , , , , , | Leave a comment

The Lotus Post


l1There are plenty of representations of the lotus in Indian art, more often than not religious iconography. Here is a (non religious) selection.

Additional posts on the choli and nihonga paintings of Indian women can also be sampled on tumblr.

Posted in Flowers, Indian Cinema, Paintings, Photography, Vintage Blouse, Vintage Dress, Women | Tagged , , , , , | 2 Comments

The Breast-Band

Posted in 1950s, Costume, Dancer, Paintings, Women | Tagged , , , , , | Leave a comment