I did a couple of posts on the nine yard sari. Almost impossible to trace a cohesive history with my limited research. But that does not mean one can’t appreciate the style as is!
A bit on the nine yard sari as worn in Tamil Nadu.
And the Maharashtrian version.
How it can be very modern.
In the 1910s and 1920s Bombay painters painted the Goan/Maharashtrian sari style a good deal. Most are plain gold bordered saris and the whole effect is deshabille and mildy erotic. Here is AX Trindade‘s painting and here is LN Taskar‘s.
And an answer to a query on nine yard saris in dance (quick answer: I don’t know!).
There are plenty of links on how to wear the sari so I haven’t included it.