The Maharani Post

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Suniti Devi’s daughter-in-law, Indira Devi.  Suniti Devi’s autobiography describes her as clever, pretty, well travelled and fluent in several languages. The autobiography also notes that the seemingly impossible union had come about because Indira gave up caste and riches to be with her son, Jit.

The high-necked, long sleeved blouses of Suniti Devi’s time are gone by this decade. Indira Devi is in a 20s influenced ensemble – those shimmering sleeveless blouses seem so common at that time.  And the pearls more lavish than the simple strand that was to follow.

 

 

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Extract from Suniti Devi’s autobiography

No doubt sari dinners should come back in vogue:)

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The Royals Post

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For more than half of the 20th century, Europe was a playground for Indian royalty.  And its women were photographed by Cecil Beaton and Man Raysnubbed Wallis Simpson, made it to the NYT’s society pages and of course set fashion trends.

Of all the royals, the women of the Cooch-Behar family stand a little apart, partly due to their Brahmo upbringing.  The first of them, Suniti Devi, the daughter of Keshub Chandra Sen, was often photographed by Lafayette in Western costume but she was also an elegant saree wearer.  Here her blouse, decidedly influenced by Victorian fashions, has little details at the neck and the cuffs which add to the blouse but are not overpowering inspite of being paired with a rich saree.  It also helps that her jewellery is minimal.

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The Fancy Blouse Post

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I love really intricate blouses for which the sari is the accessory like the one here with its elaborate cutwork.

With much thanks to memsaab for letting me borrow this.

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Noor Inayat Khan

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Noor Inayat Khan in the 1920s on the harp.  That sari is very much of the decade but more than the fashion it’s Noor’s story that is inspiring.  She died in a concentration camp in 1944 and is one of the Indian recipients of the George Cross

 

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The Brahmika Sari and Dress Reform

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Extract from Marriage and Modernity, Family Values in Colonial Bengal (Rochona Majumdar) indicating that the anchal was eventually draped on the left for the Brahmika saree.

 

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The 1940s post

This gallery contains 4 photos.

  The blouses in the 40s – apart from the ubiquitous choli – reflect wartime fashions in the West and have touches like scalloped neck lines, trims, collars and the like. Though most omit the strong shoulders. Nargis – whose … Continue reading

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The Ballet Post

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Tamara Karsavina, one of Diaghilev’s ballerinas, in the part of Nirilya/Nerilya in The Talisman.

The sari doesn’t appear to have pleats and Karsavina has a body stocking underneath. And although the blouse is loose and prettily edged, its the lovely print of the saree that I really liked here.  There are a few vintage photographs of ballet dancers in sarees (Anna Pavlova et al) but this appealed to me the most – you can see why Karsavina was often posed in costume.

You can see a coloured version here.

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The Modern Dance Post

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Dance forms in the early 20th century in the west often incorporated oriental elements, be it a tawdry interpretation or a more serious minded approach.  There are probably many ways to look at Ruth St. Denis’ body of work that includes “exotic elements”, but its obvious from the stills that a lot of effort and care has gone into the presentation, including one that evokes a Chola bronze.  Plus of course she seems  to have been responsible for the revitalisation of modern dance.

To the blouse. Its a simple one for the year it is taken in (1915) but quite clearly a choli as opposed to a Western style blouse.  I am not sure that is a sari, probably an approximation of the garment.

Re the second pic – she seems to have favoured the choli, common in dance forms in India. And there is the brooch at the centre and a single armband.  And the very neat figure.

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Sari Styles

The Parsi Style (First Pic)

The Brahmika Sari (2nd pic, Suniti Devi of Cooch Behar with an additional stole/veil over the sari pinned with a brooch) and 3rd picture Rokeya Begum in a simpler version)

The Nivi/Madrasi style (Last Pic)

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