The salwar/churidar/kameez post – 3

Unlike the chudidar where the cloth is constricted at the knee and the salwar which is constricted at the ankle, flared trousers were also worn with the kameez. The kameez initially was a tunic with  skirt but later you can see shorter, simplified versions. Given the pictures here, the fashion appears to date back to the early 19th century (strictly more Lucknowi than Mughal). The sharara is also an example of this, though it may sometimes be constricted at the knee and then flare.

The paintings are all of nautch girls so it’s a little difficult to say whether the same fashion was followed by other women.  However at least one of the links is to the costume of the Queen of Oudh so it seems like it was the prevailing style.

For comparison two films set in 1857. Shatranj Ke Khilari uses an accurate costume but Mangal Pandey uses a later mujra costume common in Hindi cinema.

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About Anu M

A potted history of Indian clothing and fashion.
This entry was posted in 19th century, Early 19th century, fashion, historical costume, Indian fashion, Indian History, Indian Women, Islamic Dress, Vintage, vintage fashion and tagged , , , , , , . Bookmark the permalink.

2 Responses to The salwar/churidar/kameez post – 3

  1. Sargam Sharma says:

    The outfit in the fourth painting looks a lot like western regency era gowns

    • Anu M says:

      Yes a lot of the more voluminous kurtas and pants of this era were influenced by contemporary English styles. And vice versa – e.g. the use of muslins in gowns.

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