My grandparents came from the villages around Kumbakonam but lived most of their adult lives in Maharashtra and Bihar. My great grandparents had a house in Tiruvidaimarudur, they moved here in the 1950s from Mumbai. Given their long lives, we visited them a few times as children. I went back for a brief visit after many many years. It refreshed my memory and I added new ones and came away with my heart and mind full of the images of Kumbakonam, despite a later visit to Goa.
A few pics of the girls and women in and around Kumbakonam. 1: A fresco at the Darasuram temple, this temple was astonishingly beautiful and I was a little surprised to find that a number of frescoes feature larger women; 2: Also at the Darasuram temple, a dressed idol of Vishnu Durgai: 3 & 4: A handloom nine yard sari and mill made polyester six yard sari on older and younger members of my family 5 & 6: Aruljyoti in the morning on her way to work 7: A man’s shirt worn over a sari on Andhra immigrants. Commonly worn by women who work in the fields or do manual labour in the state as far as I can see 8 & 9: Salwar kurtas on girls at the river – this has replaced the pavadai and the half saree for young unmarried women in all but the more conservative families. The convenience of hooking safety pins to a chain/beads remains:) 10& 11: Tinsel and Sequins are the new black of India, it is fairly common in rural Tamil Nadu on young girls as well as older women 12: This pushy young girl got about 20 pictures taken of herself with a friend. Her puff sleeves rival Anne Shirley’s.
It must have been a deeply moving visit for you, so many memories and such a rich culture. On a lighter note: what a great pity that polyester has reached India…
Yes it was a lovely visit. Polyester has been around for a bit at least since the 60s-guess they see it as easy maintenance and value for money. But otherwise yes a pity.
I was so excited to see this post Anu, as I will be visiting Kumbakonam and surrounding temples in February! It looks like a very special place… and so lovely to see your imagery and read a little about your family and experiences there. I absolutely love the handloom nine yard sari (and image of Vishnu Durgai)…
That is so wonderful, that you are going to my neck of the woods!!! I hope the weather holds up. It was remarkably pleasant when I was there. It was a wonderful experience for me given my family roots. I hope you enjoy it as much, the temples there are quite lovely and often undocumented given there are so many. I went to our family temple in a small village and its pretty basic but even on its walls there are inscriptions in the old Tamil script.
The Vishnu Durgai was quite beautiful.