In China, the process of modernisation resulted in women adopting the male “scholar gown”, which eventually became the fitted qipao/cheongsam.

Among the magazines aimed at the new woman of the time was Ling Long magazine – there are plenty of posts on it on tumblr.  The first cover didn’t feature a cheongsam but a skirt and blouse. And something in the attire and the slash of gold/zari in this cover suggested India to me.

Ling Long magazine archive here.