The six-yard khada dupatta required a whole nine yards of the heaviest gold borders to include both elaborate edges or pallows, with a particular order of gota masala stitched just so. The gala, the baghli, the aasteen, borders around neck, armholes and arms had to match the one attached to the chowhashia dupatta, a heavy fabric of gold checks, specially woven in Paithan and Banaras. On her wedding day, for the first time, a girl wore a kurti choli with the khada dupatta. The choli, her only undergarment, all handstitched and knotted in front with gorgeously bordered sleeves, over which came the sleeveless kurti with a heavily worked round neckline, provocatively slit in front. The Banaras brocade pyjama was colour coordinated with the kurti choli. The Untold Charminar, Syeda Imam.
There seem to be more than a few fusion sari/dhoti sari (X, X, X) ensembles of late – though a lot of them look less sari and more modern take on the Deccani or Hyderabadi khada dupatta. The khada dupatta is as long as a sari but requires a base of a long sleeved tunic or kurti and the pyjama. The way the dupatta is draped seems to vary though a few versions look like the sari drape on the upper part. Lighter, gauzy versions of the dupatta like in pic 3 were also prevalent.
A youtube tutorial on how to drape a khada dupatta, note that the drape differs a bit from today’s pictures.
Pics: Hyderabad girl, Raja Deen Dayal, Chunnu Begum in 1915, Mahal-e-Mubarak in 1915, Soha Ali Khan (link has info on the khada dupatta) and Sonakshi Sinha.
This is possibly the version for a young girl which had a shorter dupatta and was worn with a cap.
Judging by the comments and the pictures in makeupandbeauty.com, the youtube video has got the drape all wrong
The Kurta-Choli as described in the first paragraph seems very similar to what the Rajasthani Rajput ladies wear
Could you do a post on the evolution of the Rajputi poshak?
Thank you for your comments!
I did see the makeupandbeauty site when doing this piece. The youtube drape is different that is why I linked it – though I am fairly certain I have seen it in vintage pictures of mahbubia girls. But conceptually its quite the same I think.
Though three piece ensembles are found in many parts of India, either with a skirt or pyjama below, the Hyderabadi outfit is a little different imo because it uses a kurti-pyjama as a base and the drape is a little akin to tying a kacham e.g. the back tuck.
I will certainly have a look at Rajputi poshak – it might take some time because I try to have a few images before putting up a post.